Shoe and method of making



F MAKING Oct. 26 1926.

A. T. ENSOR SHOE AND METHOD O Filed Feb. 16'

Patente-d @et 26, 1925,

funie s'rnrn's intatti? P 'l" if@ if F i iT;

ALBERT T. ENSOR, OF BROCKTON, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR 'IO XV. L. DOUGLAS SHOE COMPANY, OF BROCKTON, MASSACHUSETTS, A CORPORATON 0F MASSACHUSETTS.

SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING.

Application led February 16, 1923. Serial No. 619,369.

This invention relates to shoes and the method of making the same by which a construction furnishing a flexible but firm support for the foot at the arch and waist is provided. i

This is accomplished by forming one of the stays, such as the eyelet stay, with an extension fitting about this portion of the shoe and lasted with the upper and lining and made fast to the sole, preferably lines of stitching extending in the direction of strain exerted on the shoe by the weight carried by the foot being provided to serve as stilfening stays, the material being flexible transversely of these lines.

For a mor-e complete understanding of this invention, reference may be had to the accompanying drawings in which Figure l is a plan of the quarter lining showing the eyelet stay ixedthereto.

Figure 2 is an internal elevation of a portion of the heel end of the quarters showing the back and top stays fixed to the quarter linings.

Figure 3 is a section on line 3 3 of Figure 2 showing one quarter lining in el-evation.

Figure 4 is a similar section after the shoe has been top stitched, lines of stitching made for attaching the qua-rter lining and eyelet stay, and after it has been vamped.

Figure 5 is a side elevation of the completed shoe.

Referring to Figure 1, 1 indicates a quarter lining to which is made fast the eyelet stay 2. This eyelet stayis preferably of calfskin since this is fiexible but has comparatively little stretch. Instead of extending only along the upper edge of the quarter as in the usual construction, this stay 2 is provided with an extension 3 projecting substantially at right angles to the top edge of the quarter and terminating substantially even with the lower edge thereof. The quarter lining and stay are fixed together by a line or row of stitching as at 4c, whereupon this quarter lining and the mating quarter lining having a similarly formed eyelet stay are stitched together along their rear edges, the usual back stay shown at 5 in .Figure 2 being placed in position and the top stay 6 made fast to the upper edges of the pair of quarter linings and across the back stay 5. The quarters which have had fixed thereinv the lacing hooks and which have been back-stitched are then assembled with the quarter linings, being stitched thereto in the usual manner.

Rows of stitching are also passed through the quarter, the eyelet stay, and the quarter lining substantially `aarallel to the upper edge ofthe quarteras shown at 7 in Figure 4, certain of these lines of stitching merging with downwardly and backwardly eX- tending lines 8 arranged in parallel spaced relation lengthwise of the stay extension 3. Eyelets 1l having been inserted through the quarter, lining, and eyelet stay in the usual manner adjacent its upper edge, the upper is vamped in the usual manner, the vamp being shown in Figure 4L at 10. The upper thus made is assembled on the last in the usual manner, lasted and the shoe finished as usual. When being lastedv the extension 3 is drawn with the lining and upper over the last and is made fast to the shoe sole.

The resultant construction, as shown in Figure 5, provides a reinforce of leather formed by the extension 3 of the eyelet stay on .each side of the shoe about the waist and the arch, the shoe being reinforced at this point by the lines of stitching 8 which extend forwardly and upwardly from the arch about the waist of the shoe substantially in the lines of stress exerted on the shoe by the weight of the wearer. These stitching lines 8, therefore, furnish stiffening ribs which help to hold the shoe snugly labout the waist of the foot, but as there are no lines of stitching crossing the lines 8 the shoe is entirely flexible endwise since the portion 3 may flex readily transversely o f the stitch lines. While as shown the ex tension 3 is a portion cf the eyelet stay, 1t is evident that in case buttoned shoes were used it would be a portion of the button or buttonhole stay. The term eyelet stay, therefore, as used in the claims is intended to cover broadly any stay arranged along the edge of th-e quarter where any type of fastening for closing the upper may be positioned.

Having thus described an embodiment of this invention, it should be evident that various modifications and changes might be V made therein without departing from its spirit or scope as defined by the appended claims.

I claim:

l. A shoe having an eyelet stay provided with an extension at the Waist of the shoe inade in one piece with the stay, which eX- tension is made fastto the sole and is stitched to the upper by lines of stitching spaced along the Waist oi the shoe and extending from the sole of the shoe at the shank 'tor- Wardly and upwardly in substantially the direction of stress in the upper at the Waist of the vshoe due to the Weight of the wearer. 2, A shoe having an eyelet stay provided With an extension at the Waist of the shoe which is inade in one piece With said stay and is made tast to the sole and lines of stitching spaced along the Waist of the shoe and joining the upper, lining, and stay, and extending from the sole of the shoe at the shank forwardly and upwardly in suhstan tially the direction of stress in the upper at the waist of the' shoe due to the outward pressure of the foot.

3.9i shoe having a pair of eyelet stays each having an extension made in one piece With it'and substantially perpendicular to its outer edge, the lower ends of said extensions being made fast to the sole at the shank and extending forwardly and upwardly about the Waist of the shoe, and lines of stitching spaced along the waist of the shoe in substantially the direction of stress in the upper at the Waist of the shoe due to the pressure of the foot against the upper, and joining the upper, lining, and extensions, extending froin the sole forwardly and upwardly and merging with the stitch lines for attaching the stay along the edge of the upper.

In testimony whereof I have aiixed my signature.

ALBERT T. Janson. 

